The plane crashed into a mountain and the story of survival that ensued is riveting and the ultimate page turner. The story is a memoir of growing up with his Dad, the good and bad and focuses on an ill advised flight they took to compete in a Junior Ski race. They lived on a stunning beach in a part of unspoilt California in the 70s, surfimg every day before the land was all sold and transformed into condos for billionaires. His dad was a very intense character and thrill seeker who would constantly push his own son to follow him into massive surf or down extreme ski slopes when he was just a 10 year old! This led him to both idolise and resent his father equally. The book is a memoir of the early years of the authors childhood. Sean Penn bought the rights to it back in 214 and was due to make a movie of it staring Josh Brolin but that has since gone quiet. Words on a page can so often takes us to places that a movie or a 3 minute video can't! Below is our recommendations and reviews of the 5 best surf books ever written.ġ. In Crazy for the Storm the author describes what it is like to be forced to take wipeout after wipeout until he got his first barrel as a 10 year old by his pushy father, and in Barbarian Day we read of a young man who travelled the world and discovered some of the most incredible waves decades before the rest of the world found out. We get to see the wave a lot but we dont often get the story around them.īooks can really transform you to a different world and offer an amazing bit of escapism. There is a big choice out there but at the same time we do feel like there are a lot of surf stories that remain untold, propably because the medium of video lends itself to easily to surfing. We spent more time than most reading our fair share of surf books so trying to do a review for the 5 best surf books was never going to be easy.

Barbarian surf book